Portrait of Lucy Hungerford - jewellery detail c1590

The portrait of Lucy Hungerford, Lady St.John (1560 – 1598) is the earliest and perhaps the most stunning in the St. John family portraits at Lydiard House. Dating from around 1590, the painting shows Lucy adorned with some spectacular jewellery.

Most curious is the jewel hanging at her left shoulder. This is a mermaid, whose upper body is made of a baroque pearl ( one with an irregular shape) with enamel for her head and arms. She has long gold hair and holds a comb in one hand and a mirror in the other. Her tail is made entirely of rubies. Three pendant pearls hang below the body, the central one being attached to a large diamond. The chain from which the mermaid is suspended is again of gold, rubies and pearls.

The symbolism of the mermaid is complex and has changed over time. In the middle-ages mermaids were used to symbolise lust, and appeared regularly in church decoration. Also called sirens, the mermaid symbolised a beautiful seductress  who lured men away with fair words from the path of salvation to their destruction on the rocks of passion. However, by the Renaissance when Lucy wore this jewel, mermaids had become fashionable items which symbolised fortune. 

Hanging from a gold chain attached to Lucy's waist is a girdle book, a devotional text which shows her ladyships piety. On the opposite hip hangs a cameo, surrounded by a gold frame with jewels, possibly diamonds and rubies, and a large drop pearl. The cameo portrait may depict Queen Elizabeth I in a demonstration of loyalty.

At Lucy's wrists are chains of gold which match the multiple chains around her neck. Decorative buttons or aglettes of gold and diamonds run down her bodice and decorate the shoulders of her sleeves. On her left hand she wears a wedding ring, as well as a ring set with a large ruby and another with a sapphire. Around her neck is a double row of pearls, which is matched by the cross shaped jewel in her hair made of three pearls, and a head-dress of gold, again set with pearls and rubies. All of these accessories match in the combination of jewels used and combine to impress the viewer with Lucy's status and wealth as well as her allegiance to the Queen and God.